bespoke menswear San Francisco
Al's Attire SF
 
As we walked up Vallejo Street in North Beach toward Caffe Trieste, our coffee hunt took a turn when we set sights on Al's Attire, kitty-corner from our destination.  Street appeal is more than good windows, clear signage, or a familiar logo — it's about a feeling and tone that draws us into a space, because there's something undeniably unique and/or compelling.  
 
Situated on the corner with floor to ceiling windows, the nearly 4000 square foot San Francisco store has a fish bowl quality. Part retail space and workshop, vintage-inspired off-the-rack apparel and accessories serve as inspiration for custom hand-crafted men's and women's hats, shirts, ties, dresses, coats, and shoes. 
 
Al's Attire
 
It would be easy to mistake the merchandise as vintage until you start to read the hundreds of personalized shoe and garment labels of previous and current clients on display above a sewing machine. 
 
As fans of all things bespoke, custom, and personalized, it's hard to find fault in the stores merchandising and easy to understand why retailers such as All Saints use similar props to portray a heritage theme. But Al's Attire is the real deal. Shoe lasts, fabric bolts, and leather swatches are all displayed among hat blocks and cutting tables as part of the working atelier. The assortment strikes a balance between need and want — merchandise and display.  
 
Al's Attire
 
All of the handsome clothing and genuine merchandising would just be art without the stellar customer service, craftsmanship, and attention to detail. During our visit, Al Ribaya and his team worked together to inform clients on materials, findings, and trim that would best fit the desired look, while still meeting their strict construction standards. At the shoe fitting pictured above, Rene took a combination of measurements and photos, along with drawings to ensure that every detail and input was accounted for during a nearly 60 minute shoe consultation. To say that Al is meticulous is an understatement.  
 
A quick search of the internet (the Al's Attire website is coming soon) proves that we're not the only customers enamored with the attention to detail. The list of clients and collaborations range from international musicians to thespians  — event planners to a San Francisco based American jeans manufacturer. In chatting with Al, it's obvious that each customer and order, regardless of the magnitude, receives the same care. 
 
As mass market retailers continue to offer a less than authentic representation of craftsmanship, it seems to us that businesses like Al's Attire appear more differentiated by simply staying the course and being true to their brand vision. We think that the growth opportunities in menswear, combined with the uptick consumers desire for an genuine narrative, make true craftsmanship like that at Al's Attire shine. 
Bar Agricole
Bar Agricole
 
In San Francisco, we were taken with the wine menu at Bar Argicole. Instead of listing each wine by color category, the menu highlights each unique estate. 
 
Additionally, each page includes a brief introduction. Here's an example: 
"François Chidaine makes Vouvray and Montlouis; the latter is across the river from its more famous sister. The wines in Moutlouis are a bit more rustic with lovely honeyed, nutty aromas and flavors. The bournais FDP comes from a section of the vineyard where the vines are planted on their own roots."  
 
We love how this is not just a clever marketing and communication tactic  but a merchandising tool for assisting the customer in understanding the breadth of the list and producer. 
Carrefour stores
 
Carrefour stores in Shanghai are embracing QR codes as a tool for communicating food safety, quality, and freshness of vegetables and fruits to customers. The codes within pricing boards take local to the next level by allowing the customer to view the production place and date of the item, the business license of its supplier, and other information regarding the farm.
 
Carrefour stores QR
 
The in-store signage also assists in creating a deeper relationship between farm, store, and customer. According to Fresh Plaza, the intent is to improve food safety and freshness, and also increase farmers' incomes at the same time.
 
When our team visited this Shanghai location, not all produce had this option. For example, the selections of imported and organic produce didn't have QR signage. 
 
Carrefour stores
 
The cause and effect of food safety in China may have played a role in implementing this marketing and merchandising strategy, but we believe that there is more to glean from this type of communication. QR codes are not simply for directing a consumer to a facebook page. This type of implementation brings traceability to the forefront -- and inspires a sense of connection and trust across a global production and supply chain.
 
By divulging the names and relationships of Carrefour's suppliers to the community, including it's competitors, they may have gained more loyalty longterm. 
Quarterly subscriptions
In a world continuous choice, the ultimate indulgence now is not having to choose.
 
The subscription model is being reborn thanks to online tastemakers and well-edited quarterly collections straight from the curated popup retail playbook. This new form of eCommerce outlines a defined theme without allowing the purchases to know the what products are contained within in their shipments until they open each mailing. By preserving the element of surprise, quarterlies are quickly immerging as a decisive and eccentric component of eCommerce.
 
Here are two examples, appropriately named Quarterly and Svbscription, to give you an idea of how lifestyle, storytelling, and limited-time-offerings aim to reshape they way we think of experiential shopping.
 
{Photo: Quarterly Co. by Coolhunting}
 
Quarterly Co. wants to connect shoppers with original content and hand-selected items from influential contributors. The offerings and themes range from items for your kitchen and table (by Amanda Hesser & Merrill Stubbs of Food 52) to design objects with problem solving combinations (by Josh Rubin & Evan Orensten of Coolhunting) and range from $25-$100, per mailing, every three months.
 
Per the website:
"Each product will reflect on the person who selected it, and help inform your understanding of them. So maybe you’ll get the same kind of notebook that your favorite author used to plot her recent bestseller. Or maybe it’s the tea a musician was drinking while he penned a famous track. Or perhaps it’s a secret family cold remedy an artist used while working on a masterpiece. The point is, every object—while uniquely brilliant in its function—will also have a story, and through that story take on new meaning."
 
Quarterly Co.
Our Quarterly - #BVH01
 
To best experience the ideals outlined by Quarterly, we subscribed to contributor Joel Johnson’s theme (above). Each of his mailings will be inspired by his late grandmother, Bessie Vivian Hildebrand, and we're incredibly touched by how the first shipment (called #BVH01 to correspond with a twitter hashtag) gave new meaning to common kitchen products with a simple series of memories.

Svbscription is a luxury quarterly service targeting a male clientele. Every three months, members receive a new parcel with a unique them of curated products and experiences that intersect design, culture, technology, apparel, and entertainment. The cost of one box is $330 and a yearly subscription is $1150.
 
The latest theme explores and reconstructs the notion of the collection for the modern man with enough vagueness to leave the potential subscriber baffled. Below are photos and a description from "V4 – The Collector’s Edition".
 
Svb­scrip­tion V4
{Photo: Svb­scrip­tion}
 
Either casu­ally, for­mally or uncon­sciously, col­lect­ing is an act we per­form through­out our lives, cul­mi­nat­ing in the own­er­ship of prized objects, rare finds, pre­cious dis­cov­er­ies and vast archives of every­thing from mag­a­zines to memories. Yet in a world where we suf­fer from the the [SIC] tyranny of abun­dance, over­whelmed by choice and selec­tion, those things we do select to fill our book­shelves and minds say more about our­selves than they would have said for our fathers and grand­fa­thers. No gen­tle­men — in this mod­ern age it is no longer enough to be sim­ply gifted with a sense of good taste. With­out the right train­ing and tools, any man can fall from the heights of refined col­lec­tor to the annals of ver­bosity, over-consumption and dare we say, hoarding."
 

While most shoppers might be turned off by this type of merchandising, it's obvious from the previous versions — all of which are sold out — that the concept connects with an affluent customer willing to spend $330 on a lifestyle sans actual product photos. 

 
Old Faithful Shop
Old Faithful Shop
 
Since our summer visit last year, we've been taken with the understated charm and craftsmanship of the merchandising at Old Faithful Shop in the Gastown neighborhood of Vancouver, BC. The humanist approach to everyday materials encourages integrity with an importance on sharing and quality time.
 
We love this wholesome pursuit of craft and simplicity with
paired down design and functional form.
 
Holt Renfrew Cosmetics
In case you haven't already heard the news... retail has a new hero as a result of the economy: the beauty category.
 
The effects of this surge in affordable luxuries have spurred growth in new products, line extensions, and licensing agreements across all price points. According to data from GCI, global retail sales of premium beauty products were up 5% in 2011, the best performance since 2007. Hair care and fragrance also posted strong numbers – 10% and 6% respectively. The selected statistics below help to illustrate the success and the opportunity within the category:
  • For the first six months in 2012, a study by NPD Group showed an 8% increase in prestige makeup sales in US department stores.
  • LVMH’s perfumes and cosmetics business group reported organic revenue growth of 8% for the first nine months of 2012. The company's selective retailing business group, which includes Sephora, achieved organic revenue growth of 14% for the first nine months of 2012.
  • The Estée Lauder Companies Inc. reported a strong financial performance for the fiscal year ending in June 2012 with net sales of $9.71 billion, a 10% increase compared with $8.81 billion reported in the prior year. The company’s strongest divisions in terms of growth year-over-year include: hair care (+100%), skin care (+14%), makeup (+10%), and fragrance (+3%)
  • The male grooming category has demonstrated a consistent performance throughout the recent years of economic instability, having increased its global revenues by an average of 6% per annum since 2006, to reach close to $33 billion in 2011.
 
Given the growth and potential, it's a mystery why retail design and merchandising have not evolved much within the segment. Traditional department store beauty counters are similar to shrine-like communal tables in restaurants with a linear and exposed fashion – meant to tap into the emotional and rational motives and allow customers to see and clearly be seen.
 
 
That's why we were delighted to discover the "beauty capsules" within Holt Renfrew in Vancouver, Canada this summer.
 
The narrow entry to each branded boutique encloses the customer within a private space that extends beyond the need for self-esteem and status. Each concept, complete with a dedicated flat screen TV, reflects that particular company's own specific style and color palette. For example, the Chanel section within the store, feels more like a room than a beauty counter.
 
 
Unlike many department stores with traditional footprints and promotions, the Burberry space promotes a feeling of luxury branding and experiences with a U-shaped configuration. The dual entry to this "capsule" is partitioned off to evoke privacy from other customers, departments, and brands. The counterless concepts allow salespeople to get out from behind fixtures.
 
The "beauty capsules" also provide unification without seeming cluttered. Each brand has a unique theme and materials, but the closed nature of each section and the white backdrop of the store interior allow varied fixtures to coexist without seeming messy. 
 
branded elevator
 
Beyond the cosmetics department, promotional fixtures and beauty campaign banners at Holt Renfrew are practically nonexistent, with the exception of well-placed elevator wraps and in-wall displays that tempt customers with media instead of messaging.
 
Holt Renfrew is not alone in rethinking it's design, merchandising, and services related to beauty.
  • Selfridges launched its largest-ever 5,000 square foot beauty project, The Beauty Workshop, in September. The concept showcases 50 new brands and has treatment rooms for personalized services. Employees are trained to work across a variety of brands and are employed by Selfridges rather than by brands. “If every woman emptied her makeup bag on the table, there would be a variety of products — there is no brand loyalty,” said Jayne Demuro, Selfridges’ Head of Beauty. “This is about giving the customer what we think they want, and it’s about offering our customers choices.”
  • Harvey Nichols is looking for more locations for a new specialist boutique, Beauty Bazaar, and is planning on introducing beauty product vending machines in its department stores in 2013.
 
As brands vie for premium placement, it seems logical that they also consider cohesive design that emulates their luxury company-owned freestanding locations. Design and merchandising are key elements to the puzzle.
 
caffe umbria
Caffe Umbria
 
How do you improve on sophistication and heritage? For Caffè Umbria, the answer is all about design.
 
As fans of the Italian-style espresso and coffee roaster for some time now (we pour Bizzarri Blend using a French Press at the office), we were delighted to see the brand evolve with powerful new packaging that is differentiated with simple details that capture the true artistic essence of the companies rich history.
 
Caffe Umbria
{Image and packaging design by Tether}
 
We love the juxtaposition of the background pattern, changing color with each blend, and the bold type throughout the range. Most intriguing is the logo placement – which allows for vertical or horizontal merchandising at retail.
Harvey Nichols
Harvey Nichols
 
Harvey Nichols announced their holiday merchandising theme today with news of a Christmas pop-up shop in Retail Week.

Richard Morris, Finance & Operations Manager at Harvey Nichols, said: “This year’s decorative theme is fuzzy felts, drawing on the nostalgic childhood favourite craft pastime. Customers can expect to see over-sized fuzzy felt characters and shapes throughout the unit.“
 
Sounds like Harvey Nicks is taking a note from Stella McCartney's spring/summer 2009 runway show. In October of 2008, the designer presented her collection in front of giant Fuzzy-Felt backdrop courtesy of the artists Jake and Dinos Chapman.
 
Fuzzy Felt might seem like a extremely DIY theme for a luxury retailer but we're willing to bet that the installation will translate more as pop-art canvas than craft-store cardboard.
 
{source: Retail Week}
 
EDITORS NOTE 10.22.12: The Harvey Nichols Merry Hill location uploaded a few photos of the fuzzy felts theme from the pop-up concept. Check them out here.
 
1205 Local
Local 1205
 
Effortlessly, without the use of subway tile or metro-racks, you can tell that Local 1205 has a New York influence — without an olive oil sampling table or menacing tower of coffee beans in burlap bags. Let's face it, we've all seen plenty of knock-off Dean & DeLuca's in the specialty grocery market, and it was time for someone to give shoppers something new.
 
Craig Weiss' micro-mart concept is rustic and industrial enough to let the gourmet foods, local produce, East-Coast style deli, and raw bar shine.
 
local 1205
 
Local 1205 might not be entirely local, but the merchandise assortment is compelling nonetheless. Across from a selection of imported mustards (France), Boat Street Pickles (Seattle), and Pane Carasau (Italy) there's a counter for grass-fed meats, charcuterie, bread, and a station for made-to-order sandwiches. House made Porchetta balances New York meats from Katz’s and 2nd Avenue Deli.
 

 

In front of the sandwich counter, a variety of pickles and olives in barrels make an Organic Foods Store self-serve fixture look impersonal.

 
The space is well organized and a bit sparse by grocery standards. We imagined a few of our merchant pals clamoring to "stack it high and let it fly". But clearly quality trumps quantity here. There's space for everything to breathe, including metal bins for bulk dry-foods like steel cut oats.
 
raw bar

 

An extensive cold pressed juice and smoothie program coupled with raw vegan foods reflect LA's sunny disposition without that hippie vibe. Of the four distinct areas within the store, this is clearly the busiest.

 
Binchotan Toothbrush
Binchotan Toothbrush
 
Forget the frivolous Maison Martin Margiela Ostrich feather pen fad and turn your attention to charcoal for an intelligent home novelty.
 
We've watched as Japanese bamboo charcoal at Boulettes Larder has gained popularity among the Gastronomes, and have long been enamored with the Chikuno Cube as an all-natural air freshener, but last month we were delighted to see other Binchotan products — like the famous "black toothbrush", known for radiating negative ions and providing a powerful deodorizing effect by removing the plaque and the cause of bad breath — gain mainstream appeal.
 
Binchotan
 
No longer an online exclusive, this cohesive heath and beauty Bichotan offering was spotted on a recent trendscaping safari at Inform in Vancouver, Canada. Using a QR technology as part of the product signage, the simple visual presentation was able to communicate the vast benefits of traditional and contemporary Japanese aesthetics to overseas markets.
 
We believe that the strength of merchandising is often in simplicity (and quality never goes out of style), and adding the QR code provides instantaneous customer service.