bespoke menswear San Francisco
Al's Attire SF
 
As we walked up Vallejo Street in North Beach toward Caffe Trieste, our coffee hunt took a turn when we set sights on Al's Attire, kitty-corner from our destination.  Street appeal is more than good windows, clear signage, or a familiar logo — it's about a feeling and tone that draws us into a space, because there's something undeniably unique and/or compelling.  
 
Situated on the corner with floor to ceiling windows, the nearly 4000 square foot San Francisco store has a fish bowl quality. Part retail space and workshop, vintage-inspired off-the-rack apparel and accessories serve as inspiration for custom hand-crafted men's and women's hats, shirts, ties, dresses, coats, and shoes. 
 
Al's Attire
 
It would be easy to mistake the merchandise as vintage until you start to read the hundreds of personalized shoe and garment labels of previous and current clients on display above a sewing machine. 
 
As fans of all things bespoke, custom, and personalized, it's hard to find fault in the stores merchandising and easy to understand why retailers such as All Saints use similar props to portray a heritage theme. But Al's Attire is the real deal. Shoe lasts, fabric bolts, and leather swatches are all displayed among hat blocks and cutting tables as part of the working atelier. The assortment strikes a balance between need and want — merchandise and display.  
 
Al's Attire
 
All of the handsome clothing and genuine merchandising would just be art without the stellar customer service, craftsmanship, and attention to detail. During our visit, Al Ribaya and his team worked together to inform clients on materials, findings, and trim that would best fit the desired look, while still meeting their strict construction standards. At the shoe fitting pictured above, Rene took a combination of measurements and photos, along with drawings to ensure that every detail and input was accounted for during a nearly 60 minute shoe consultation. To say that Al is meticulous is an understatement.  
 
A quick search of the internet (the Al's Attire website is coming soon) proves that we're not the only customers enamored with the attention to detail. The list of clients and collaborations range from international musicians to thespians  — event planners to a San Francisco based American jeans manufacturer. In chatting with Al, it's obvious that each customer and order, regardless of the magnitude, receives the same care. 
 
As mass market retailers continue to offer a less than authentic representation of craftsmanship, it seems to us that businesses like Al's Attire appear more differentiated by simply staying the course and being true to their brand vision. We think that the growth opportunities in menswear, combined with the uptick consumers desire for an genuine narrative, make true craftsmanship like that at Al's Attire shine. 
Secret Location
Secret Location
 
To name a concept store Secret Location would seem a little gimmicky unless you ventured into the 1/2 retail, 1/2 restaurant playful space in Vancouver, Canada. Separated by a minty green foyer, the fashion-meets-food 10,000 sq.ft. "shopstaurant" (yes- we made that up), complete with doormen at the entrance, is ultra-modern, luxuriously eclectic, and visually dramatic.
 
Secret Location Vancouver
 
North of the front doors, we discovered a beautiful assortment of women's apparel, accessories, shoes, books, music, and cameras/gadgets from brands such as Camilla Skovgaard, Marios Schwab, United Nude, Thierry Lasry, Rad Hourani, Tweety, Pantone, and artist Lauren Clay of Brooklyn NY. The fixturing is a combination of modern and traditional, with a hint of baroque. The space maintains a constant frequency with open spaces to allow the products to shine.

 
 
"Secret Location supports a diverse mix of fashion-forward international and Canadian designers. We do not acknowledge brands, but place emphasis on quality craftsmanship, design philosophy and creative ingenuity that stands behind each product. Determined to offer new, thought provoking and limited quantity pieces, Secret Location is and will continue to be an ever-evolving place of discovery."
 
 
To the south, the  bar + restaurant is the perfect spot to escape from tourists with a glass of rose. The setting, much like the shop, is modern and classic without feeling sterile or over-designed.
 
 
Secret Location Cafe
 
Located in the historic gastown area, the term Secret Location is definitely a play on words for the word-of-mouth crowd. The only secret may, or may not be in the ownership of the concept.
 
 
A nod to the past (ballerinas) and present (non-ballerinas) at Repetto's latest Parisian boutique in Le Marais.
 
The cult shoe brand, created by Rose Repetto, captures the splendor of choreography with exceptional merchandising. It's no wonder that Brigitte Bardot commissioned her to manufacture a pair of red ballerinas for her movie 'And God Created Women'.
 
 
Beyond words.
 
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{photo: ChristianLouboutin.com}
 
Christian Louboutin is hoping a US judge will move forward with a temporary ban on red-soled shoes.
 
Judge Victor Marrero, based in New York's Southern District, will be the one to decide on a proposed temporary ban of Yves Saint Laurent's 2011 red-soled cruise collection shoes until the company's ongoing dispute with Louboutin is solved, reported Drapers. Marrero will make a decision on a preliminary injunction banning the sale of the shoes, and his judgment is likely to indicate who will win the trial.

Last April, the designer filed a lawsuit claiming that YSL's red-soled shoes violated his signature red-sole designs. Louboutin trademarked his red varnished heels back in 2008 and is seeking $1 million in damages. However, YSL say a trademark should never have been issued and that it is impossible to regulate given the array of red shades in existence. YSL also says it has used red soles on shoes since the 1970's.

We're curious how this dispute will be resolved. The concept of ruby-soled slippers isn't new (think Dorothy in the Wizard of Oz), but it's hard to argue that in the last 10 years, when people see the red sole on the street, they think Louboutin.
 
A new twist on our not-so-weekly news bites. The trendscaping "giving" category represents innovative campaigns to help Japan. Get clicking.

GIVING

 

{photo: Tatcha}

- All profits from the TATCHA's Kiri Gift Set of aburatorigami (Japanese blotting papers) through March 31st will go to support relief efforts in Japan. You can purchase one, or many, here.
- ShelterBox USA provides emergency supplies an extended family of up to 10 people with a tent and essential equipment to the worst hit areas of Japan. Best of all, you can track your box to know it's going to good use. Donate now.
- For each $5 donation on LivingSocial, they will match funds and donate to the American Red Cross Japan Earthquake and Pacific Tsunami fund. Limited time so click now.

FASHION
- Pamela Love X Topshop "Spirit of America" collaboration set to hit stores this April.
- United Nude debuts pop-up installation at London's Selfridges featuring spring/summer collection.

 

- A closer look at Maison Martin Margiela bottle lamps by AnOther's Lovers.

RETAIL
- New report from Experian shows that up to 90% of store purchases are now influenced by online research according to Retail Week.
- Pop-ups will never replace permanent stores, but they can & should become complement to a retailer’s brand strategy.

FOOD
- Fast Company names the 10 Most Innovative Companies in Food. Is it just me or does your definition of "innovation" differ?

 
Using state of the art touch-screen and precision real-time 3D rendered products, shoppers can select shoes on an Adidas AdiVERSE virtual shelf. Using the new technology, users can pull products, look at it from any angle, rotate it, zoom in, and also get additional product information.

Finally, shoppers can buy their chosen footwear via a tablet based checkout as well as from the cash desk and have them delivered to their home.

Fashion week inspiration, news, and pretty thoughts...
 

 
{photo: Coolhunting.net}
 
  • Want to be Cinderella? Just in time for Halloween, one of our favorite designers, Maison Martin Margiela, is bringing the fantastical shoe to life in limited quantities.
  • Time to celebrate! Tom Ford is seeking funding to launch a new womenswear collection.
  • U.K.'s Selfridges launches new range of men's leggings dubbed 'mantyhose'.
  • Photographer Annie Leibovitz & British artist Damien Hirst are two of six personalities tapped by Louis Vuitton to design special-order leather goods for an auction at Sotheby’s in London on Nov. 17 to aid the Red Cross.
  • Levi & Strauss launches a line of snowboard apparel in collaboration with snowboard clothing label 686.
  • Clothing designer Rick Owens has launched a limited-edition collection of furniture designs called "Evolution" at Sebastian + Barquet’s gallery in London.
  • The deets from Fashion week bloggers via Refinery29.

Missing the food stuff? Follow @trendscaping on twitter.
 

{photos: Style.com}
 
Preppy's infiltrating mainstream with smart tailoring (J.Crew), seemingly essential plaids (punk to classic), and wearable androgynous variations (Boy by Band of Outsiders) on the old sophisticated themes.

It was only a matter of time until nautical got back into the game. Classic retailers are hoping to get a little bump from new interest in what's old. Unfortunately, it seems that some brands have one foot in and one foot out of innovation.
 
{photos: Timberland}
 
Take Timberland. They've taking a cue from Nike iD, by offering customizable colors on their classic boat shoes but the hues seem far too conservative (these combinations push the creative envelope) for the fashion forward shopper.

On the other side of the customer spectrum, the innovation of customization and monogramming does not translate with their core audience who is seeking durable leather mainstream footwear.

 
Finger on the pulse; news we're following...

FOOD

  • Where to eat after your IPO?
  • The art of preserving and canning is profiled in the NYTimes (DIY food trend for saving $)
  • Jacques Torres opens Ice Cream shop in Dumbo.
  • Burger Wars aren't reserved exclusively for NYC and it seems everyone has an opinion: T&L best burgers, Seattle Met list, MSNBC, Food Network... you get the idea.
  • Obama at Blue Hill mania: New Pics from Eater.com.

FASHION

 

 
Introducing our new favorite shoes. The ultra-lightweight comfortable, and colorful find from United Nude in NYC.

The Mono Jane Mary Jane wedge is molded from very lightweight EVA material with a non-leather strap and non-leather foot-bed making the Mono Jane a completely vegan shoe. It's super light (less than 7 ounces) with an awesome 10 centimeter height heel.

The United Nude name derived from the fact that products evolve from international teams in an open way with direct recognition. Each design is very architectural, starting with the first launch, 'Möbius' shoe, in 2003. Since then, United Nude has established itself as an iconic brand at the intersection between design and fashion.

Available in New York (268 Elizabeth Street, New York 10012, 212.274.9010) or online.